There’s a magical vibrancy to Praha, or Prague as it’s called in English. The Charles Bridge is lovely, with statues of saints and religious figures decorating the railings. Street vendors sell art and jewelry along the bridge, which causes me to stop every few minutes to admire the next piece of work. While I have done minimal shopping elsewhere, I feel drawn to the crystals and art work in this city.

While Prague is one of the most popular destinations in Europe, it feels like a local city. There are touristy parts like old town, yet it’s easy to find hole-in-the-wall bars and restaurants that aren’t ridiculously expensive. The beer is cheaper than water, yet everything else is only slightly cheaper than the U.S.

Prague is not what it appears to be. Small wine shops and bars suddenly turn into sprawling underground labyrinths and extensive beer halls. From the outside they are nonchalant and quaint, but if you’re curious enough to walk in you’ll be pleasantly surprised by what is in store.

At Lokhal, I drink delicious cheap Czech beer and snack on sausages and potato dumplings. New hostel friends and I find extensive humor in the English version of the menu. The beer hall is extensive and is well-hidden from the street view.

U Sadu is my favorite bar in Praha. It’s easy to miss, because it looks like a regular wine shop from the outside. But once you walk in you notice a small doorway in the far right corner. From there it’s like stepping into something like Alice in Wonderland and Lord of the Rings combined, plus a plethora of foosball tables. There are multiple layers beneath the city streets and each new level includes a new bar with dimly lit hallways.

The locals are polite and friendly. They are quick to return a smile and most speak English. 80% of Czech smoke cigarettes and it’s common to walk into a bar and get blasted by the smell. After a night out my clothes reek like I’ve been smoking all night long. The smell is something I’ll never get used to and it makes me somewhat homesick for back home.

Like many other places on my adventure, I extend my stay for longer than anticipated. Praha entices me. The beer is so savory and the city is beautiful. After six days I finally decide to head to Germany.